Gordon I bought the tool because of the deep offset on my 17" wheels. Figured I would do a lot less damage with the tool and have not been sorry I made the investment. If you do a search here about wheel removal you will read about all kinds of horror stories about shredded hammers, broken spinners etc.
I got my tool from Finish Line and assume it is the same as the one you are looking at. There is no socket or other fitting to use a torque wrench on. The tool is round and machined out of a billet of aluminum with three indents for the spinner arms on one end. On the end opposite the indents there is a hole to put a bar through. In my case I cut the end off a 24" break bar as I originally thought that would give me enough leverage to remove the spinners.
Not even close! I then went and bought the pipe that fit over the break bar for more leverage. Get this----- as I was trying to loosen the spinners with my car on my painted garage floor, the tire was slipping on the painted surface (no, the car wasn't on any jacks ------ and this was the front wheel and I have a big block!)
I had to roll the car into the drive way where there was enough friction between the tire and concrete to break the spinner loose (probably would have been easier with someone to hold the brake on). Remember, the spinners come off in the direction the wheels turn when the car is moving forward (right side - clockwise; left side counter clockwise).
Probably not a very good explanation and unfortunately I don't have a good picture.
I used plenty of never sieze when I remounted the wheels and tightened using only the break bar. The spinners are safety wired and have never loosened any so they must be tight enough (thus my comment about using a lead hammer being an art versus a science).