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Originally Posted by Gunner
Working under cars is one of my special horrors - .
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Then you need one of these.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunner
Rod, I settled on plain old Castrol 5W-30 for this change,
In the end, a mild hydraulic engine that won't see anything but mild track time (if that), the cooler and thermostat taking care of temps, and a plan for fairly frequent changes let me go with a fairly ordinary good quality dino oil instead of anything more exotic.. |
I think you're absolutly right. All the ASE oils are good, and all have their perks and drawbacks. For the vast majority of cars, a good dino
oil changed regularly is all they need. Spending more doesn't get you more; there's no "value added".
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunner
Anyone have preferences for a filter? I was going to replace the Fram with the same thing; I've had good luck with Fram products.
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Fram is probably the worst one on the market. I use a Purolater Pro-1 or Motorcraft. Both are easy to come by, and relativly inexpensive.
Quote:
Originally Posted by StreetSnake
I wish we all could come to a consensus. What do you all think. 427 windsor, 550HP/550TQ. .
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You won't really find a consensus. Mostly because each car has some differant uses. I use only RP; but I put in a lot of track miles. My street cars get a
synthetic blend for the longer drain intervals.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunner
Accusump: I have been thinking about installing one of these systems on my car as well. How many different components need to be ordered? I notice they don't have a kit. I'd like to get it put on over the winter.
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They do have installation kits. But, unless you're tracking the car, the Accusump is not necessary. It adds weight, complexity, expense, and leak points that you really don't need. Looks cool, though.
But, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong.