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SPF Slave Cylinder Help.
OK, I've adjusted and bled the system to no avail.
The clutch is just barely dragging when the pedal is fully depressed. Causing tough shifting into first and lots of noise in reverse. Another 1/4 of an inch of travel by the slave cylinder is all that is needed. And Yes, I have already adjusted the rod from the pedal to the M/C. Both cylinders are moving the full length of their travel. Both are 7/8 inch units.
I have the slave with no adjusting nuts on the shaft that comes out of the slave. It just has a bulb on the head and that rests against a depression in the clutch fork. Thus, no external adjusting of the rod is possible. Is there any way to put a shim between the fork and the rod or to put a spacer between the rod and the piston in the the slave to gain additional length? Or, can I replace the rod with another type that is threaded so I can have some sort of adjustment?
Finally, If I replace the slave with a similar unit, how do I keep all the brake fluid from running out of the M/C and the lines when I remove the line to the existing slave? All lines from the master to the slave are metal, so I can't clamp them. If I clamp the rubber line from the fluid reservoir to the M/C, will I then drain the M/C and have to bleed that too when I replace the slave?
Any other solutions you guys have come up with to this problem? The slave and M/C are both 7/8 inch, and the slave is travelling the full length of its stroke. It just isn't enough to fully depress the clutch.
And finally, the car has a Quiktime bell housing and a TKO600 trans with a pusher slave. Seems to be lined up OK with the shifting fork.
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Jim
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