[RAO-3]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Now you tell me.

I think the truth of the matter is that my POS Smiths Ammeter gauge just isn't worth a crap when it comes to readings -- and the needle sticks when it goes all the way to the left. I've never blown the 30A fuse on the fan circuit (which is both the pushers and the puller) and, if you can believe the literature, the puller yanks 15 amps and the pushers yank 8 amps. I know I own a clamp-on inductive amp gauge but I believe it's only for AC. I'll check that later today. If it's AC only then I'll trot out and buy a DC one. I'll measure the spike and running loads along the circuit. I'm serious about the Smiths gauges. They look cool, but they're absolutely garbage. My fuel gauge never read right, then it "sprung" apart in the dash, I replaced it, it still didn't read right but read differently than the first one. If the amps on the combined fans are anywhere near the circuit breaker's theshold then what I thought I might do is split the pushers off the fan circuit and route them, only, to the manual override switch on the dash and leave the puller running off the thermostatic switch - separate relay and circuit breaker as well. It really bugs me that the Smiths gauges are such crap. C'mon, how hard is it to make an ammeter gauge anyway?

What about going with the circuit breakers that require power to be removed to be reset? This would still kill the power but require you to turn the car off and then back on again before it would reset, allowing you to 'acknowledge the problem' and not necessarily leave you stranded if the fusible link went out. Rick is right about the fuse holders - you need to get one that handles the rated voltage and current to work any application. Circuit breakers and slow blow fuses are for protecting motors and the like as they can deal with the in-rush currents for a short period of time before failing.

Just a thought.

-Ray