[bobinyelm]

I just got my car on the road (well, sort of-I am awaiting a new non-binding steering rack from Reg before I can have it inspected), and after only two 10 minute test drives in the neighborhood, the clutch went out.

No external leaks, and it was bled perfectly. I suspect the master is bypassing the fluid, though I need to investigate further.

I am reading a LOT of old posts about hydraulic problems, mostly due to heat.

My 351W engine only has maybe one hour run-time on it (half idling w/ the hood open). Is this enough to cook the master cylinder?

I have the factory heat shield and the push-type slave cylinder on mine.

If it's heat-related, has anyone explored a small blower mounted somewhere and ducting cool air at the brake and clutch master cylinders?

I tried reaching in there, and even though the hood was open the entire time I had the engine running (maybe 5-8 minutes) the air and cylinder temperatures were more than what a human hand could stand.

Most of the clutch posts are over 2 years old. Does this mean there has been a "fix" I am unaware of? My MSO has "C/N 661" in red at the bottom, so I guess this is my chassis number?

Any insight much appreciated!

BTW, I read the master is from a 1985 Mazda truck-is this true if I need another one?

Bob