[RICK LAKE]

mickmate Mick 2 things, Unless you are beating on the car hard, get a diaphragm clutch assembly. 2,600 pounds if you are driving normal. You didn't say what the HP and torque of the motor is? This is also important for buying a clutch. 2,800 pounds would be the max for your car.
I am reading they rebalanced your flywheel?? Did they resurface the clutch side?? If yes, make sure that the PP bolts don't go through and hit the block protector plate. They could be too long now. I have seen this happen.
As for clutches, IMO centerforce sucks. If you look at some of the old threads about clutches , you will find that they have no idea about how this clutch is to work with the sliding weights. I got the gold one and had nothing but problems shifting the car over 3, 000 rpms because of the lockup weights on the PP. Many calls. everything was to blame but their parts. Ended up buying a 2nd trans from G-Force after the richmond 6spd was to be the problem. It was not. $6,500.00 dollars later and still a shifting problem with another new trans. Turned out the weights where loading the PP and not letting the trans unload and shift. I broken the clips in the shifter 2 times. I figured out the weights where causing the problem. I removed them and have not had a problem with the clutch in 10 years. With the 400hp 452 motor the clutch holding was fine, With the 482 motor the clutch slips if I hit the throttle and not roll on and off. I will end up with a multi disc clutch with motor 498. The street twin is going to be the way to go for a car on the street. For the track I may go to a smaller multi disc 8" setup.
I don't HATE Centerforce for there products, I hate them for the stupid tech end and giving out wrong info and not knowing how there own product is to work. Alot of guys are running the CF clutches without weights and having no shifting problems. A HTB bearing may have worked with the weights but the one I installed leaked from the banjo fitting. ERA uses a master and slave setup with a modified fork. I feel the engage and release is quicker than a HTB setup for racing.
You know you can go out and buy a cheap 11" clutch and get many years out of it for 1/3 the price of some of the stronger clutches. The last thing about this is, It's alot cheaper to replace the clutch assembly than the rear end of the car. Clutch is a sacrificial part of the car for the drive train, just like the torque converter for a car with an automatic. These parts absorb the abuse. Good luck with the new clutch assembly. Rick L.