Not Ranked
Patrick
The two guys you have rferanced didn't say a single word about tire pressures or stagger!!!
They set the cars up on concrete blocks and floor tiles!!!
They suggest buying $20 levels at Sears because the highly accurate levels used in accurate shops cost $200!!!
They don't know what conduit is made out of!!!
They think that the wheel base needs to be the same on both sides of the car!!
Who would you like to ask about my qualifications???
Someone in the following fields----agriculture, trucking,drag racing, indy cars, dirt oval,
pavement oval,road course, karting,military wheeled or tracked vehicles,aviation????
Since this is ClubCobra, how about Carrol Shelby, himself?
You seem to be hung up on corner weights------corner weights won't change the weight of the car---as you add (or subtract) to one corner, you will change weight accordingly on the opposite corner the same direction and it will come from or go to the cross corners---make left front heavier, rt rear gets heavier and rt fand lt r gets lighter---
You seem to be missing that when you set you ride heights, that you must adjust all 4 corners----and you will set your ride heights for various reasons---looks, traction(weight transfer) braking (weight transfer) cornering (weight transfer)
AND-----suspension member heights and angles can be effected by your RIDE height so some are adjustable to maintain the effects of caster, camber and bump steer----
The people who race in any COMPETITIVE circles (as compared to track days or dyno slips) do these weights and alignment checks constantly, before and after races, practices, tests---Every time the car comes off the track they check tire temps at three locations to determine what the suspension is doing, and tire pressures as the car comes to a stop when it comes off the track
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