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Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

Blykins Brent You know it's not that simple to pick a set of valve springs for any camshaft, solid or hydro, flat tappet or roller. You have left way to much info out. RPM limit, HP or Torque motor, smooth idle or rough. Oiling system. You know I run beehives and have heard the same issues of not enough valve spring pressures. 380 at .600" lift when new. Now down to 365-360 at room temp, give them another 8-12 pounds lower when at engine operating temps. Setup and camshaft profile are the most important. Too much spring pressure and not enough will do the same thing, kill a valve train, lifters, bend pushrods, poor running motor. I used to think that more was better, I have come to learn that a little less works better and is a safety blanket for not pushing a motor past it's normal limits. If you every have the time and money, buy a set of PAC beehive springs that are used in some busch motors or truck motor. They have a 420 pound limit with .750" max lift. A 7,000 rpm range is not out of the question with these springs. LS2 motors are spinning 7,200-7,300 rpms before valve control is lost. I am going to use these next along with small valve stems. Tell people to lighten the valve train before going to 500 pound valve springs. Again this depends on the camshaft profile. Titanium retainer and valve spring retainers all save weight and extend the rpm range. Solid lifters are lighter that hydros, again more rpms. The jury is still out of the bind clearance on beehives. I run in the .090" 's. of bind clearance. Some say that .060" is doable and that the coils help stablize the valve springs by hitting the coils against each other. Have seen video of this. I have also heard of broken valve springs too. Rick L.

Don't forget some Titanium valves & rods too, AKA LS7.. The Eagle 4340 H-beams are sooooo heavy, as well as their cranks too. You can twist a long arm FE (482"+) past 7K RPM but you better add another $15K in light weight goodies.