[undy]

Originally Posted by Jerry Clayton

Well I'm not on the list----

But yes you can repair the threads with the block in the car

Use heli coil--a longer version since its an alum block

If you use helicoils for a repair and later they fail, then you can go to the insert

Never, ever use bolts into an aluminum block--always use studs
and they are removable--arp has allen tips

Thanks Jerry, I figured I could do it in place. I'll locate a longer heli-coil. I also can't remember if the block's already helicoiled. If it is then I believe they make an oversized Heli-coil or a time-sert or ??

I'll also order some studs, pretty much already made up my mind on that one.

Originally Posted by lineslinger

I've been following your "adventure" Undy.... bet your glad to see the bubbles (well, kinda'). Got a lot of respect for your determination and creative thinking in solving your engines leakage problems.
Keep the posts and pictures coming on analysis and repair on the rebuild and good luck with that as well.

Thanks Line, bittersweet to say the least.

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

X2. Thank for taking the time to photo and write to keep us up. Glad the find can solve the problem but don't know who/how stripped it.

Let me say that the only wrench that has ever been on my intake and heads is yours truely. I did the assembly, I alone am responsible.

Originally Posted by blykins

I'd go with a helicoil...and switch to studs. The ARP studs have the hex head in the top so you can use an allen wrench to back them out. The studs will give you 100% thread engagement in the block, something you didn't have with the bolts.

I'd thought the ARPs had the allen head. I should have switched to studs before. I knew better on the intake and made my own studs, the best thing I could have done after stripping a hole or two.

How about head gaskets? Felpro, Cometic or what?? Do you do anything special around the head gasket water ports?

Do you know if the Pond head bolt holes are already heli-coiled? As many time as I've had this apart you'd think I'd remember...

Originally Posted by olddog

I was hoping the porosity in the back of the intake was it.

I'm curious if the head bolt stripped when it was torqued or if it failed sometime after it was torqued. Did you torque the head down or someone else?

When you get it apart, you need to determine if the threads in the block are good. I am assuming that the block had heli-coils from the manufacturer. I would not put another heli-coil in unless the aluminum threads in the block look good. As far as I know there is only one size tap for a heli-coil for a certain size bolt thread.

Check to see how many of the head bolt threads were actually engaged. Was it a short bolt? Did the Heli-coil come all the way up to the top (recessed resulting in not enough threads)?

I agree that studs would be better. High torque on aluminum parts always give me the willies when I pull on a wrench. With studs the threads in the block never get twisted under load.

I personally torqued everything. All head bolts torqued solid to 85 lbft with no undue yield. The threads must have pulled out during operation. When? I don't know. I've had this coolant problem for over a year.

I'll pull the heads next weekend and inspect the block threads.