Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA Chas
Several factors. Pat just wrote one-the surface area of our oil pans. Most Cobra noses are full of holes-the grill, side vents, hood scoops and no belly pans like modern cars. A 60MPH, 50 degree or colder breeze is a very effective heat remover. Plus the length of oil lines running to and from a cooler-even a blocked one- act as fins on a radiator. One year as a test I capped the cooler lines so that all the oil stayed in the motor. NO difference at all, oil temps never got above 140 and the water barely stayed at
thermostat temp.
All the tape, plexiglass, aluminum covers, billet t'stats-it's all BS. Any doubters should do the only litmus test-cap the lines and run on oil in the motor only.
We all 'love to drive our cars' but I think you need to get mature enough to figure that you can cause gradual destruction of your expensive toy. Set your priorities-drive it every day 'cause 'it's only a replica' or have something you worked hard to build for a long, trouble-free time. |
Very interesting. So would switching to a
synthetic help, since the oil will run cooler and synthetics flow better in the cold? I was thinking about the amzoil one, since they claim high
zinc. I am currently running the vr1 20w50, per my engine builder's recommendation.