[RICK LAKE]

Keith58 Keith I have been running a Speed-pro system for 14 years. It has had two failures due to installer, me. 1 ground wire was loss, the other was welding a bracket with the system hooked up. Other than that runs great.
I built my own setup to start with a single plane dove setup and machined bungs into each runner. Tiged them in, grind smooth the hanging part in each port and made a basic fuel system to work with duel fuel pumps in the tank. Orginial I was going with a Paxton blower on the car but had belt problems with running a 2" clog belt and stripping the belt or snapping it. The important thing is how large the air inlet is, (throttlebodies or throttlebody) You may need to change the linkage ratio for a smooth steady increase from idle to WOT. From what you are telling us about your motor here how be the setup for you if you are running street, if you are looking for track, you get the other setup,
street Ported manifold to fit your heads bungs installed and cleaned up
Brain, FasT system with wide O2 sensor ability range. If the camshaft is nasty the programming will have to be "N" programming because the map sensor with that readings all over the place. The main controlling sensor will be the TPS. You will need a return system with 1/2" to the motor and 3/8" return to the tank. I recomend running 2, 255L fuel pumps in the tank with a one way check valve and on different switches or use the brain for controlling one and have the other on a backup switch. 1,200 cfm throttlebody from Accell. You should still goto a pro tuner and have it setup correctly. They are good for fining any where from 10-20 hp more after setup is done. Cost on east coast is $125.00 per hour with 3 hour min. Good tuners have you in and out in 4 hours. Changing spark plugs a couple of times to get a sharp tune. I run mine soft because of all the weather changes around the east coast and different events I goto. I have 3 downloads for different tracks from short autocrosses to long road courses. Trans change is also done too. Unless you have all cylinders tested for A/F and EGT's to fine the leanest cylinder, and have the O2 installed in that exhaust pipe, install the O2 sensor as far back as you can up to 12" behind the collector for the best readings. Every motor has rich and lean cylinders. This is also a reason I went with the FAST system. Mine has a timing and fuel control for each injector to balance out the cylinders. When done right the motor runs as smooth as glass. IMO I don't believe that there are system that do relearn as you drive, there is a fudge factor built in and basic setup to get the motor running. with a 10% high/low adjustment the motor will run ok BUT still need a good tuner for a sharper tune. For power wise a carb will make a little more top end power that a throttle body but for drivibility and better control of the motor rpm and having no lean outs or rich wash downs from a carb the FI wins. Injectors would be 50 lbs. and having a vacuum fuel pressure regulator. I don't like running injectors more that 80% duty cycle. At 6,200 rpms with a 482 motor I am in the 67-69% cycle. I also believe that the quad drivers for the ECU don't get overheated. Good open space or a small fans is needed to help control temp of the ECU. I use the foot well inlet on pass side of car to keep heat down. I also have a 3" fan if needed to help move air through better. My MSD 6AL is under the ECU and also gets plenty of air too. Got long winded here will finish this later. Rick L.