One thing not mentioned here is the affect of the combustion gases on the rings and how it goes by the rings and turns them. You will almost always see the end gaps lined up on the compression rings on engines that have been run a while and I think this is caused by the combustion gases going by the top ring and turning it as it looks for the gap on the second ring to go by and then turns it back the other direction. I do not think the
oil rings move much.
The type of ring used will have a lot to do with it also, like the ring tension, width, where it is located on the piston, is it gas ported and such. The cylinder finish is the most important thing on the cylinder and ring seal and you better not be doing your Dart blocks like your stock blocks or your aluminum blocks with the hardened liners like the other two. You have to drag the cylinders and check the RA on them to make sure you are getting the correct finish on the cylinder. You can have them to slick or to rough. Most people get them to slick and burnish the rings. There is more to this than most people understand any more. I have notes and stones for several different blocks and even change the amount of strokes depending on the blocks and rings. I know the rings spin but how much I am not sure of but I do not care as long as they seal and make power. You do need a straight round cylinder and I will say that my new Sunnen SV-10, 50,000.00 hone will hone a cylinder within about 1/4 thousand of roundness and straightness but it should do more than that for that kind of money. I figure it will take about 500 block to get it paid for give or take a little. Sounds like I need to hone some damn blocks. Why would anybody do this to them selves.
Good luck, Keith