Quote:
Originally Posted by Scufty
K ..I have a question for all of you? Have you ever heard of a " oil related breakdown" and I don't mean |
I have. 4 years ago I spun a rod bearing at the track.
Oil pressure was good, and I use a good pan. I was using Dino
oil then. Would the same thing have happened with a true
synthetic? Maybe, IDK.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scufty
Most of these engines we are running are 40 years old and they ran just fine with the oil that was available at that time? OIL RELATED BREAKDOWN? enlighten me please? thanks
|
I think for most Cobra owners, this is true. The vast majority of Cobras only get a few thousand street miles per year, and the oil temp probably never gets above 220*.
For those engines, any good dino oil changed once a year will keep that engine alive for 20 years.
Quote:
Originally Posted by scaffold
I've also been told by a friend whose career has been in the oil industry that there are only 3 oils that are truly synthetic--Mobil, Amsoil and Redline. All others are supposed to derivatives of pertroleum products. |
AFAIK, there are 4 true synthetics on the market:
Amsoil, Royal Purple, Redline, and another brand I can never remember. Most Mobile 1 is not on the list. They used to be, but in recent years have started with a dino base stock, and not PAO. I have heard a rumor that their 15W50 Motorcycle oil is the only one that sarts with PAO, but I can't confirm it one way or another.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DAVID GAGNARD
I use 15/50 Mobil 1 in my race car cause I turn it 7,000rpms and run an oil temp from 230 to 260 while racing depending on the outside air temp.... Synthetic oils are good for 300 degrees whereas dino oil is good for about 240 degrees...........
With that said, everything else I own gets 15/40 Shell Rotella T....David |
I set my rev limiter at 6,700 rpm's, just a little less than yours. Oil temps do tend to climb to about the same level. I use RP 10W40 in the summer, and 5W30 when it's cold.
I take the engine apart every 2 years for rings, bearing, gaskets, etc. After 2 years of hard use in all kinds of conditions, the engine looks great. No measurable bearing wear with plastigauge, ring gaps are still where they should be, everything looks clean and shiny. I'll coninue to use RP in this engine.
My diesel truck still gets dino oil, doing fine. Air cooled motorcycle gets synthetic, because it is hard on oil.
Also, my engine takes 11qts: 7 in the pan, 1 in the filter, 2 in the accusump, and one in the cooler. I'd love to have a dry sump. If I had a track only car and a bigger budget, I would have a dry sump. But, I don't, so I don't.