With the points plate removed you can now see the advance mechanism with the weights, springs, and stops. Notice in the picture below the one heavy spring. That’s what keeps the total advance from coming in until the high 4k range. Also notice that there are two optional slots that control the mechanical advance. One is marked 18L and the other is 13L. Those are the degrees for the stop that comes up with the piece of rubber on it. There are other advance slots ranging from 8L on up depending on what engine you have. We need to take this cam/advance stop out and rotate it 180 degrees so the stop is on the 13L side. Remember 2x13=26 cranks degree plus 10 degrees initial timing for the total of 36 degrees. We will later have to lift the dist. and rotate it 180 degrees.
To remove the cam/advance limiter, take a big needle or something sharp and in the top of the shaft were the rotor goes look down in the hole. There should be a piece of felt. Remove it. By the way this is a neglected area. You are supposed to add some
oil to the felt every so often to lubricate the advance mechanism. They get rusty and seize up, and then you won’t have any advance. Under the felt is the wire clip. It can be a bugger to get out. I use a really small set of needle nose pliers and small screw driver. It’s not easy but don’t force it. I think it took Jeremy about 10 minutes. I have a picture of the clip and some felts in the round try.
You then just remove the springs and lift the cam out. Jeremy then lubed the distributor shaft that the cam slides onto with some light white grease. Don’t use heavy grease or it can hinder the advance. Then he installed the cam back in with the stop on the 13L side and then installed the new springs, the clip, and felt that goes in the end of the shaft.
