Jeremy bumped the starter over so the timing marks on the crank dampener were close. He then put it in gear and we rolled the car forward a little to get it perfect so we could see the marks. I cleaned the marks off with a 3M pad and Marked 0, 10, and 36 degrees with my fine paint marker. Timing is always set with vacuum advance disconnected.
Jeremy then started the engine and the timing was close. He then ran the rpms up to about 3,100 rpms as I watched the timing marks. This is where it stopped advancing so we knew the springs were about right. This part is easier for two guys to do; one watching the timing and the other working the throttle and watching the tach. We then ran it up past 3100 rpms and set the timing at 36 degrees for total advance. We then let it idle and checked the timing to see where it ended up. Interesting, it ended up at 7 degrees advance. This would mean that the 13L slot was not exact and or the rubber cushion on the stop was worn or shrunk. So we ended up 3 degrees off from what we wanted for initial timing but total was what we wanted.
If we were dead set on 10 degrees initial timing our options are to put a thicker piece of rubber hose on the advance stop arm or to weld up the advance stop side of the 13L slot. What you are trying to do is reduce the movement within that slot. I have never used a thinker rubber hose, but it seems like a reasonable idea. In the end I gave my old dist. cam to Jeremy so he could weld up the slot and grind it just right. It’s just a slight amount as it’s just 3 crank degrees or 1 ½ dist. degrees.
