Quote:
Originally Posted by strictlypersonl
It helps to have a small jack support the rear end of the pan so that the engine tilts up at the back.
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What Bob said. Here is some more: loosen the motor mount nuts at the perches. Remove the sheet metal bell housing cover just ahead of the tunnel so you will have the ability to tilt the engine up. If you are just tilting a little bit, there is enough slip in the side pipe joints that nothing will get bent. Non-ERA flange mount guys go ahead and take 'em loose.
Disconnect clutch actuator (or hyd line if that is what you have). Remove shifter, speedo cable, NSS, driveshaft, and tranny mount nuts, either at the frame or at the tranny. When you jack the engine, put a board under the pan so you don't damage it. Be very careful with a sheet metal pan. I jack at the rear most edge, not at the lowest point of the reservoir. You want the rear of the tranny to come up about two inches. This is so the tranny housing will slide back and not hit the e-brake bracket. You have to pull it back about 10" or so to get the shaft out of the BH. If you have the shipping plugs that came with the tranny, stick those back in the tail shaft and speedo hole. Otherwise, a rag and try not to tilt the tranny back or it will disgorge it's fluid. Of course you could drain it, but GM Synchromesh is $15 a qt.
Sam