Hello guys,
So I decided to go with the semi-rebuilt root, and not with the full rebuilt. Some guys might argue here but I tried to reduce the cost of the repair while making sure that the parts I will not rebuilt are in good condition.
So I did not removed the crankshaft, pistons, valves etc. A mechanic checked the crank for scratches and if it is 100% round etc... Below it is the list from the parts that I bought.
It is also worth mentioning that the old pushrods where not bended. Also the previous length pushrods where totally wrong length and hitting the valvle cap.
The correct pushrod length is: 202 millimeters = 7.95275591 inches
The previous ones where: 5/16 in. Diameter and 19.8 centimeters =
7.79527559 inches. - and guess what, the old ones where touching like
crazy the retainer caps. Now are perfect center by using a marker pain
and we checked that there is good clearances on the retainer caps.
So the list:
*Comp Cams Roller Rocker Arm Set - $279
*Comp Cams Adjustable Pushrod Checker - $17
(then after checking the length using the below links as guide I ordered the *Trick Flow Specialties Pushrods TFS-21407950 - these are the one piece design)
Finding Proper Pushrod Length - Circle Track Magazine
COMP Cams® - Pushrods
Setting Pushrods Length, Quick and Easy- Car Craft Magazine
How to check push rod length. Plain English - YouTube
COMP Cams® Quick Tech: Achieving Proper Rocker Arm Geometry - YouTube
*Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller Lifters - $209
*ARP Rocker Studs - $39
*Melling HV
Oil Pump -$57
*Moroso
Oil Pump Pickup - $47
*Clevite Main Bearings - $38
*Clevite Rod Bearings - $25
*ARP
Oil Pump Driveshaft - $20
*Mr. Gasket Intake Gaskets - $20
*Ford Racing Oil Pan Gasket - $19
*Felpro Valve Cover Gaskets (2 Sets) - $30
*Felpro Oil Pump/Pickup Gaskets - $4
...Also the belt was not properly aligned. So we machined a small bracket so we can offset it a bit. Now after 100miles seems all going smooth. The oil psi is reading around 70psi (cold) and 55-60psi (when hot). I guess that is normal since the viscosity of a liquid is dropping when temp is rising. I am not 100% sure if the carb is 100% well tuned. I bought a thick book about Daemon carbs - and I have started reading it. I guess - this will be my 2nd post. :-)
Important:
When I got the car from the original owner (at 670miles) the oil psi was not working correct. What I mean by that?
While I was driving the car the psi gauge was showing / jumping with super fast speed and showing randomly crazy values. (example = 60-0-10-0-50 etc)... Yes I was a newbie back then - and I believed that is normal. Also the previous owner told me that this is normal and should be the gauge's fault. So I was driving the car... I am still newbie but what I am thinking is that the oil pump rod was already broken. Since that rod became two pieces (as show in a previous image) I believe that the top and bottom part of that rod contacting each other creating some fast spinning and psi and that is why the jumps on the psi gauge. Then after some miles - due to friction no more touching = no more spinning = dead bearing etc...
To conclude: the engine was with the 2 rocker arm studs broken (sine the acceleration was not good - no way like it runs now! + those spark plugs where totally wet - not idling nice + difficult to start + a lot of smoke! (I can not believe I was not able to see these signs back then). But now that I know how it should run, I guess I will know next time.
Also the oil psi rod was already broken - because of the gauge jumping readings + the oil level was more that normal...(maybe not so important the level but if the oil does not circulate = then it rests down = higher readings)
Now I still have 1 tiny thing to fix. It is the oil temp gauge. This is dead also. Any help on that guys?
Best - Andronikos,