HELLO PAUL,

I USED "0" GAUGE COPPER WELDING CABLE - VERY FLEXIBLE YET VERY HIGH CURRENT CARRYING CAPACITY - YOU DON'T WANT TO SKIMP ON THE CABLE. "SIZE DOES MATTER". I USED SOLDERED-ON COPPER "EYE" FITTINGS ON THE CABLE ENDS. I USED A PROPANE TORCH TO SOLDER THEM. BE SURE TO USE A RESIN CORE SOLDER.

I RAN IT THRU A LENGTH OF 3/4 INCH GALVANIZED ELECTRICAL CONDUIT. I USED (YOU CAN RENT THEM FOR NICKELS) A CONDUIT BENDER TO FORM THE BACK PORTION TO BRING IT UP INTO THE TRUNK. I USED A 3/4" CONDUIT COMPRESSION FITTING ON THE END OF THE CONDUIT AND A 3 INCH ROUND UTILITY BOX COVER ON THE TOP AND THE BOTTOM OF THE TRUNK MATERIAL AND A "JAM" NUT ON TOP AND BOTTOM OF THE ASSEMBLY. IT "AIN'T GOIN NOWWHERE".

I FASTENED THE CONDUIT ALONG THE OUTSIDE OF THE RIGHT HAND MAIN FRAME RAIL WITH CONDUIT "STRAP" CLAMPS ABOUT EVERY 12 INCHES.

THE FRONT END IS A BIT DIFFERENT: I BENT THE CONDUIT UP INTO THE ENGINE BAY ABOUT 6 INCHESS AND TERMINATED IT THERE. THE CABLE CONTINUED ON (ABOUT 12 INCHES) TO THE STARTER WITH OUT THE CONDUIT. I USED ELECTRICAL (NON-HARDENING) RUBBERIZED INSULTING TAPE TO SEAL THE OPENING AROUND THE CABLE AND THE CONDUIT.

THE T.W. CONDUIT IS GALVANIZED INSIDE AND OUT BUT I SPRAYED THE OUTSIDE WITH NON-HARDENING UNDERCOATING FINISH JUST IN CASE - ALSO FOR COSMETIC PURPOSES. WHEN YOU LOOK UNDER THE CAR YOU DON'T EVEN SEE THE CONDUIT.

MY CONCERN WITH "RUNNING THE CABLE BARE" IS BOTH DETERIORATION FROM ROAD SALTS AND OTHER CHEMICALS AND DAMAGE (AS IS IN "SHORTING OUT") FROM FLYING DEBRIS FROM THE ROAD SURFACE. MY SYSTEM IS PROBABLY A LITTLE "ANAL" OR AT LEAST A LITTLE OVERKILL - I GUESS SOME OF THAT COMES FROM SURVIVING 23,000 HOURS PLUS OF FLYING TIME. BUT I ALSO ONLY LIKE TO DO EACH PROJECT ONCE.

IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS PLEASE E-MAIL OR CALL ME 703-723-7276.

INCIDENTLY: THE CABLE END IN THE TRUNK DOES NOT GO DIRECTLY TO THE BATTERY; IT GOES TO A CONTACT ON THE EMERGENCY CUT-OFF SWITCH JUST BEHIND THE PASSENGERS SEAT. FROM THER IT GOES - ABOUT EIGHT INCHES TO THE BATTERY.

JUST A THOUGHT: FROM THE "BATTERY" SIDE OF THE CUT-OFF SWITCH (BY-PASSING THE CUT-OFF SWITCH) I HAVE A SHORT PIECE (8 INCHES) OF 14 GAGE WIRE WHICH CONNECTS TO AN 8 AMP - IN LINE FUSE - THE WIRE THEN ACCOMPANIES THE BATTERY CABLE INSIDE THE CONDUIT. WHERE IT EXITS THE CONDUIT, IT GOES THRU A SMALL (GROMETTED OF COURSE) HOLE IN THE DASH AND INTO THE COCKPIT. IT ALLOWS ME TO HAVE A "UTILITY CIRCUIT" EVEN WHEN THE CUT-OFF SWITCH IS "OPENED".

MY UTILITY CIRCUIT POWERS AN 8 DAY CLOCK AND A COCKPIT MAP LIGHT. (CERTAINLY NOT ORIGINAL BUT "CORRECT FOR THE PERIOD. I LIBERATED THEM FROM AN F-86). IT ALSO POWERS UNDER DASH CONCEALED AREA LIGHTS AND THE ALARM SYSTEM

AGAIN IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS PLEASE CALL ME

Y'ALL HAVE A REALLY GREAT DAY,

BLACKJACK