[Jac Mac]

Originally Posted by Ant

Jac Mac you are right I could take the belt off etc thats what I did when we dynoed the engine and used a speed brace, but its a bit inaccessible as my engine bay is quite crowded, I need a filter mount and it would make it easy to prime the engine on a more regular basis, mind you when my road car has done 500,000k of hard miles with no issues. I am thinking its only important when the block is dry.

Regarding filters I am going to use these Canton screw on filters
https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...ion&key=25-434
they have no bypass, flow 45 gpm and filter down to 8microns. As you mention I might be better to go for a Ford remote mount as I can use a variety of high performance Ford filters such as K&N etc, the small mounts are HP1, HP4 etc. I had a Fram HP6 mount and it was just massive so I got rid of it.

Ant, you know what I am like, go thru the Filter catalogue until I find what I want then make whatever I need!! The better catalogues show thread size/o-ring dia & overall length & dia, so you just pick whatever you can fit & go from there...as mentioned in above posts the larger thread sizes wont restrict flow & the larger dia Chev/GM O-Ring allows more holes on the outer side.

Dont think this deal you have lined up would work in the setups I run as it would have to pull the oil thru the pressure section of the dry sump pump, We go -tank, pump pressure, cooler, filter, motor... the critical bit is - tank, pump- which is the same way you have yours IIRC unless it uses an extra line to the tank or pan bottom to source oil from..[yep,looks like that is how they do it--more plumbing]