[RodKnock]

Here's the entire verbiage from the "Bare Aluminum Finish Care" section for your quick reference, since alot of nonsense gets posted here about the maintenance of the bare aluminum finish, whether brushed or polished:


"Bare aluminum finish care

Leaving your car in bare aluminum is a great way to show off your roadster and let others know that it isn't a dune buggy. Most of these cars don't spend a lot of time in rain, snow, or other harsh climates so the finish doesn't see a lot of abuse but there are times when your finish may need some touch up.

For our sanded or brushed finish we recommend water in a spray bottle and paper towels to remove dust and road grime. If the grime is really nasty you can use Windex brand window cleaner. (Some brands of cleaner will actually stain the aluminum so be sure to test your cleaner in an inconspicuous area of the car.) If your car does get rained on, wipe it off if possible so that the rain will not spot the car. Customers in smoggy areas should clean the water off quickly so that it doesn't etch into the car.

If you do get a stain or scratch in the finish, you can use sandpaper and Scotch-Brite pads to "redo" the finish. Use red Scotch-Brite pads and a high quality 120 grit bodywork sandpaper. You can get the sandpaper in sizes precut for a body file board (long and skinny). If you cut these in half they will be about the length of the Scotch-Brite pad.

If the stain or scratch isn't too deep you can use the Scotch-Brite pad to clean up the finish. Brush the finish in long straight strokes going with the "grain" of the finish. Be careful at the end of each stroke so that you do not move across the grain. If you do, it will leave visible scratches. When you first start with the pad it will be "sharp" and cut well, after you use it for a while it will lose its abrasive properties. After the pad wears in it will take a little more effort, but you can still use the pad and for most cars the finish produced with a dull pad will more closely match the finish already on the car.

For deeper scratches or blemishes you can use the sandpaper followed by the Scotch-Brite. Start with one of the half sheets of 120 grit paper. Fold a Scotch-Brite pad in half length wise and use it as a backing for the sandpaper. Again, use long straight strokes and go with the grain already on the car. Be careful not to move the sandpaper across the grain or you will be able to see the scratches. The sandpaper will cut pretty aggressively so be cautious. You shouldn't have to use a lot of pressure and you should not spend too much time in one spot. Use long strokes so you don't "flat spot" the place you are trying to fix. Once you have cleaned up the problem area with the sandpaper, use the Scotch-Brite to match the finish to the rest of the car. It is good to tape off any chrome parts (hood handles, headlights, turn lights, etc...) so they do not get scratched. If you are working next to a polished area, tape it off so that you will not accidentally cross over and scratch the polished finish.

For polished areas on the car you can use water or Windex and microfiber towels. If you get a scratch or blemish in a polished area use Mothers aluminum and mag polish and microfiber towels to clean and re-polish. Carefully clean the area with water and then dry with a clean towel. Apply a dab of Mothers to the towel and work it into the area that needs to be polished. Wipe off any excess polish with a clean towel. If you are working next to a brushed finish, tape off the area so that you will not cross over and gum up the brushed finish."



ERA is a fantastic Cobra too built by the wonderful folks in CT who have been doing it for decades. So, whether you buy an ERA or a Kirkham, you'll get a top of the line Cobra with great customer care. Also, both companies will customize your Cobra for you too.