[RICK LAKE]

Lodiwino Peter calls my car a bastard car. It was built back in 97-98 no my own. Here's what I have done to the car for FI system. Have to remember that my motor(452) was supercharged to start and then went to a 482 size. Final motor will be a 498 with TWM setup. specs,
1,200 cfm accell throttle body, It's small but responce is great and control is smooth from idle to 6,200 rpms, ( hydro roller motor with beehive springs)
injectors 55 pound semens that where matched for flow.
Single plane dove manifold converted over to port injection. Side note have your manifold sent to Joe craine in Texas for port job of the runners. There is a 31 cfm different between the best and worse cylinder. price is about $400.00 with shipping. Manifold comes back looking like a jewel. All cylinders within 5 cfm when done. balance of cylinders is better too with A/F readings.
Fuel pumps, running 2 walbro 255 litres in the fuel tank. Each has own supply line, curcuit to relay and switch. Have 1 way check valves to stop flow back on other line. Have filters in both lines before and after pumps. Hardest part was routing them from tank to front of motor. I have a 2 1/2" supply lines and 1 3/8" return line. This is over kill but needed the extra pump and pressure with a blown motor. Need a MIn of 1/2 & 3/8 for a safe supply. IMO and tested over the years. You can get away with 3/8 & 5/16 return but don't recommend it. This is a street setup, not a track one. I don't like boosting up the pumps either. Mine have 39.5 psi at idle with vacuum control to the regulator and 46 psi at WOT. I pump alot of fuel around and it does warm up a little over a 20 minute run on the track. I also use from 3/4 to 1/2 tank of fuel level when racing. 3/4 "G" pulls the fuel away from my pumps at times and loose a little power, needs to be a 280 degree sweeper on the outside.
Fuel regulator is a paxton blue. These came out in 95 with vacuum control and adjustment. No problem been very happy with unit. No repairs to it yet.
MSD system for FI system with a crank triiger on the dampener. Need crank and camshaft sensor for an old FAST system. Coil is the High voltage "E" coil. Have had to replace rotors and caps over time from there poor contact issues and burning the rotor end.
I ran my fuel lines under the floor on the r/s of my car. I removed the riveted flor to do this. There is no easy way to run the lines and protect them from road debrie. Have a insolated clamp every 12" for support and to stop vibration of the lines.
The ECU is an old Speed-Pro setup with a 286 computor speed running and "N" calibrations using the TPS, Coolant sensor, O2 sensor, and AIT sensor. The first setup was done by a pro in PA. I have done small changes over time. It's not cheap but, IMO I think it's better than carbs in hot weather and easier on the motor for not washing down cylinder walls around turns. 7 years in a 452 motor size, now 8 years with a 482 motor size. The system is easy to expand. Side note, at WOT the cycle of my injectors is 68% The MAX you want to run injector is IMO 82-85%. YOU can cheat with high pressures and other trick but this puts alot more heat on the quad drivers in the ECU and shorten life too. Watch which injectors you run, Some are low ohms, others are high ohms. Make sure the ECU is up to carrying the load. Run + power to all injectors and use - side to ecu. Use 14 gauge wiring if possible, none of this 18-24 gauge stuff, same for MSD setup 10-12 gauge and direct hookups to battery, not starter soleniod. 95 amp charging system would help to. Need to change the amp meter over to a volt meter in the car also. Rick L.