[bobcowan]

I had the guys at DIY build the ECU for me. I didn't think my skills were up to that job. When I got it, their documentation said they installed a VR circuit, and they sent me a Hall sensor. I asked them about it, and they have found that the Hall works better when used with a VR circuit. I searched through the boards, and sure enough, I found that was the general concensis.

I'v been thinking about this sync loss issue since last night. My plan for today was more on road tuning, see if it was a heat issue. But we had a surprise snow storm last night, so that will have to wait. Today I'll decrease the air gap from about 1.25mm to about 0.75mm. Since I can't drive it today, I'll take the dash apart again and adjust the R56 pot to 2.5 turns.

If that doesn't work, not sure what I'll do. Probably keep the standard ignition system and run the ECU off the negative side of the coil.

I took a close look at the commercially available wiring harnesses. If you're using it with the MSII or MSIII, it works well. All the labels and pins matched up properly. But I'm using the MSII/Extra, with an added DB15 on the other end of the case for ignition control. I would have to modify the plugs and the harness, and then none of the labels would match.

We have a surplus electronic store here in town that's a real treasure trove. I got all the wire I needed for about $10. I spent another $50 for a crimping tool and the DB37 connecters, hoods, and pins. I now have extras that I'll probably sell on e-bay. My only regret is that I should have used more 20g and 22g wires than I did. It wouldn't work any better, but it would have made the job easier.

One of the big problems with the Megasquirt is the documentation. If you thought the FFR build manual was tough to work with, you're in for a big surprise.