Not Ranked
Well, no joy in mudville. I thought maybe it was a heat issue, as the last two times it occurred after the engine had been running for a while. Today it started within 10 minutes. Air temp was about 25-30*, coolant temp didn't go over 100*. So, it's not a heat issue.
Then I noticed that as I sat there with the key on and engine off, I was still getting a trigger signal. The rpm's would jump up to 20, 80, 210, 30. Sometimes the trigger would go on long enough to trigger the fuel pump relay. With the engine off.
When I unplug the hall sensor, it all quit. If I pull the sensor away from the whel, it also quits. I'v come to the conclusion that these expensive hall sensors are cr ap. Not sure what I'll do now.
Just to get the car going, I think I'll switch to a neg coil trigger, and continue to use the mallory for ignition. That means I'll have to take the dash apart and reconfigure the ECU. Again.
I didn't expect this to be a turn key project. But I did expect the individual components to actually work as advertised.
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.boB "Iron Man"
NASA Rocky Mountain TTU #42
www.RacingtheExocet.com
BDR #1642 - Supercharged Coyote, 6 speed Auto
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