View Single Post
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 03-03-2012, 03:57 AM
RICK LAKE RICK LAKE is offline
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: E BRUNSWICK N.J. USA,
Posts: 3,841
Not Ranked     
Default I know the system you are talking about

bret a ewing Bret Mr Gasket, Morroso and Steff sell that system and have for the last 50 years. It had 1 way check valves into the exhaust system or headers. I didn't like it with headers and IMO it doesn't bring anything to the table for helping scalvaging the pressure out of the motor. They just enclose the motor and give blowby or internal pressure a controled exit from the motor. High pressure motors like prostock, It may have helped but Our Hemi car it only causes a spinout with oil getting on the back tires. Bottom of the car got soaked. Here's my thought on this and could be wrong but this is what I found. For max HP and torque you need back pressure to help the motor. The idea number used to be about +1-+2 pounds of pressure at WOT. Size of exhaust pipes also is important. Too big, loss of power in motor, just the same as too small. Again this all depends on what the motor is built for, where the HP is wanted and what rpm range you are looking to run.
The small amount of oil that runs through the motor and is burnt is safer and better that to possiblity has this oil get under your car or tires. JMO. I do have a new set of these valves unpackages from 1983 in the junk pile.
I am happy with my system and have 16 years with it. The next motor is getting a vacuum pump and dry sump system. Again I build torque motors with limits of 6,200 rpm and not 7,000 rpm buzzers. Not the strongest or fastest but can hang around with some fast cars. Rick L. Ps the kit went from 29.90 to 41.50 in 30+ years.
Reply With Quote