Doug--I have been reluctant to reply on this as I know that I will draw a lot of flack ---
But after 50+ YEARS of working on everything from farm tractors up to and including nitro fueled dragsters, funny cars, pro stocks and Indy cars, go karts (WKA national & world championships) dirt circle track racers, etc----
With the availability of the flex hones (bottle brush) and brake clean (no more gasolene soaked rags)---You can and I have done hundreds of times( without any problem that stemmed directly from ) done what you are asking about---
A few tips---have the crank turned to where the stuff won't drip on the throw and maybe cover up with towel---Dip the flexhone in some type of solventy mix(honing
oil is good but maybe not available), mineral spirits works good, can be washed off with water--make a few passes up and down but concentrate at the top (ring travel region), when you have a pattern(clean looking but don't go until it is glazed)--spray down walls to wash away stuff with liberal amounts of brake clean---move to next hole---
After you have the area rinsed pretty clean, and wiped off around top and bottom areas of cylinder--before you install pistons, you need to use clean lint freee paper towels folded with some fresh
oil on them to wipe the cylinder walls until towel stays clean( you will notice what I mean as you do this)
Of course you will also need a brush hone with the necessary grit to get the surface finish you need--- check and adjust if necessary the ring gap--
I would suggest doing a leak down check prior to disassembly of your engine and after its put back together--
If while doing this you find its not going smooth or you aren't happy with your work you can then remove the engine and do as others suggest--
Since you are reringing all 8 , don't put it back together until you are done cleaning all 8 holes--
And good luck---you got 35 minutes before next round-----
don't mix up the rod caps---