Not Ranked
Doug, IMO, you need to go back to what you know works. So that means first up, disconnect the wiring and the relay for the new lights, then fix the turn signal problem and then make sure everything is then working the way it should be.
Only then should you wire in the lights and relay, remembering that if you take power for the relay directly from the battery, it won’t show up correctly on the ammeter. If you wire it this way, then just accept that your ammeter won’t read correctly ONLY when the big lights are on, but that’s OK. So consider changing to, or adding, a voltmeter.
If you take power from the ‘non-battery’ side of the ammeter, it will show correctly, but you will be putting an extra 16amps (if the lights are 100W each) through your ammeter wiring, and I wouldn’t do that.
Taking power for the relay direct from the battery is the most efficient way to do it.
Incidentally, I have run two 100W Super Oscars on a car with a Lucas generator (22 amp rated output). That worked OK (just) but I eventually replaced the gen. with a 35 amp alternator which was more than adequate. That car didn’t however have significant other electrical loads other than ignition, normal lights and radio.
Fix the turn signals first.
Cheers,
Glen
|