Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete Munroe
Dave,
Not impossible too low on oil, but it should have been at 8 qts. That said, in the past I have added as much as another 2 qts, it still does it...infrequent and unstructured sessions on the track aren't much help for testing and having good input. The problem has been present since first time on track and the wear has been accumulating for years?
Will go check quart by quart as I add oil, and verify my marks for 6-7-8 are accurate. Would like to know the max oil I could put in the pan and not overfill it and get into the spinning crank
Removing the dam on the side of the pan may have compromised it more than I would have thought. Lots of people have run the pan with no problems, I certainly do not drive hard enough to create any problems.
The lower end support will probably go, no need to hold the lower end together if you are at a low, ~ 400 hp output? and, aren't starving bearings for oil.
Pete |
I agree with 400hp,the stud girdle is not needed.......easy to chceck how much oil is enough and too much....with the pan off,put a straight edge across the top of it and measure the depth from the pan rails to the bottom where the oil pickup goes....then put the straight edge across the lowest part of the engine internals,(crank counter weights) when they are at the lowest point down into the pan, measure from that point to the block where your oil pan bolts,now you take that measure and use it on your pan to see how far the engine internals will be in the pan and mark the inside of the pan, now take a 1/2 gallon or gallon jug and fill with water and with the pan on a level surface,begin pouring water in the pan till you get to that point, that'll tell you how much oil you can have in the pan before it hits the spinning crank...if your dipstick is in the timing chain cover,you can take a measurement as to how far it will go down into the pan and see if your marks are accurate..
Did this on my Canton pan just for the heck of it and the normal oil level is right at the point where the pan comes up in the rear, basically the lower sump part is totally full and no oil on the rear part...measured the dipstick and it was correct also...You should also check to see exactly how far the oil pickup is from the bottom of the pan while things are apart.....
Since I've used 3 different oil cooler over the years,different sizes,when I changed the cooler, I started with 8 quarts and then started up the engine and let it run for a minute or two,shut it off and then checked the dipstick and added as needed to bring it up to the full level,depending on the oil cooler,it takes from 10 to just over 11 quarts......
I'm still wondering what happened,with the type of pan you have with the trap doors in the bottom,if your engine had an adequate amount of oil in to begin with,it should not have starved for oil even in a long sweeping turn...
David