[RICK LAKE]

Dangerous Doug Doug I have the old steel cradle for my car. With the tank down I have enough wiggy room to get it out. I have quick connector for fuel system to drop tank. Wire for sendor is longer so I can drop tank on ground and unhook.
As far as support cover, I try and overbuild everything and have backup systems if possible. I talked to guys racing for years with Jag rearends. Alot of this depends on power of the motor and which rear carrier you end up with. One Jag rear carrier has a 17 or 19 spline stub shafts and carrier. Know 2 guys running this setup and have not damaged the rearend. Both are very good drivers and limit abuse to car. One car is autocross and road race only the other does 1/4 mile too with road race and autocross. I have seen 27 spline stub shafts twisted and snapped. I know some of this has to do with clutch holding power, amount of torque and HP, and how soft the tires are and what gives first. Jag rear and Jeep Dana 44 use the same internal parts. I broke a couple of rearends with slapper bars on the rearend and L60 soft tires back in the old days. I replaced the rearend and carrier 3 times before getting better chromemoly axles, tripe"D" locker, and tighter backlash in the case. ARP studs and nuts to hold caps in place and added the support to put pressure on the carriercaps. I have been told that a Jag rearend will hold 600HP. I have read in different articles that 450-475 is max HP or torque for this rearend. The CWI kit has 30 spline stub shafts instead of 27 spline and is about 30% stronger. The story I heard was CWI was getting stub shaft through the down under country and they where twisting. They may have been under more hp that 600hp. I don't have that info. I do know that Mark Williams makes custom stub shafts for Jag rearends and they are chromemoly and good for 700+HP. I have a set and 15 years later no failures or twisting of shafts. Short axle shafts are chromemoly tubes. I broke 1 stubshaft bearing with 3 miles on car. The installer screwed up (the damn mechanic, me). The vent tube was the only other problem I got from running on the track for more than 15 minutes. The rearend fluid got hot and rearend builds up a little pressure. Ran a longer hose and small catch can for this. No problem since. I did also add a small 4" fan to blow air down the trans tunnel and onto the rearend. I don't have a temp gauge for the trans or rearend but think this dropped the temps by 20-30 degrees with cooler fresh air blowing on this part of the car. My Trans tunnel is fire proofed and sealed. If I do have a fire, this will give me a chance to get out of the car without frying.
Haylon system is on the wish list down the road. 3 line system. 2 under the hood and one on me. If the driver is smart and not over abusive, a stock rearend will hold up for many years. It's about being smooth and control of the car. I man handle my car some times, this extra overbuilding the car saves me when a get stupid and mad. You know the line," Drive it like you stole it". If you have easy access and $145.00 dollars, buy it and set it up right. I see no down side. Rick L.