Quote:
Originally Posted by griffbl
Gents (and Ladies!)
Just purchased an Autokraft MK IV, Chassis number AK 066, (or is it AK 1066? I would assume from the build date in 8/85 it was #066) and I have a few questions. *The car was built in August of 1985, and has a hood scoop, painted a deep metallic blue. *302 with Webers, and Stainless sidepipes. *After taking delivery, I was surprised to see the dash more closely resembles an original Cobra vs. the Ford switchgear, etc. on all the Autokfraft Mk IV's I have seen prior to this. *The fuse box and relays are also located under the passenger dash, as opposed to where the manual says they should be....Shifter is also the early Ford style... NOT from the mid 80's Mustang. (NOTE: After having gone through piles of receipts from previous owners, I see where they paid for stainless side pipes AND to modify the dash to look like one of the original 1960's cars..That seemed to be accomplished by removing the lower dash cover, and fan switch controls, etc. Now you can see the bracing inside the cockpit..to each his own, but I would prefer it AC MK IV style for ease of repair, etc. and a few more creature comforts).
I am in Dallas, TX. *I probably would want to make the side pipes go away, as they are a bit in the way. *I like the rear exhaust on the MK IV's, save for their length, which I think should be shortened.
A few specific questions:
1) the dealer said let it run at 1500 RPM's or so a few minutes to warm it up and not foul the plugs etc. as to having aluminum heads....HMMMM. My initial thought was that the webers may be rich.... *After starting it in the garage, however, I see condensation and soot, I think, on the drivers side spotting finely from the sidepipe on the garage floor. Only on driver's side. *It goes away when the engine warms up. I understand about condensation when the pipes are cool, but it seems odd it would occur on the driver's side and not the passenger side! At least know soot, or tell tale marks on the passenger side....Any thoughts?
2) I am getting some loud pops through the pipes on decelleration....my hunch is that this is because of the slip fit collectors and header pipes. *I was told to have flanges made with a gasket, but I had hoped to try some high temp silicone, or something similar, and or some header pipe tape where they come together before exiting the engine compartment. *Any Thoughts?
3) a few electrical gremlins....was disappointed not to find the fuse box as pictured in the manual. *Low beams do not work, so probably a fuse or relay.....I cannot tell which relay however! *Hard to get to, not labeled that I can see......any help much appreciated!
4) anybody know of a shop in the Dallas area that might could help with some or all of the above?
Car runs great, and is pretty raw with those sidepipes. *I will try to tone that down some, and go from there.....If not I will probably let it go at some point, as I think I bought it right, and it is a very nice car overall.
Thanks for your help!
Griffbl
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Many Thanks to all for the Replies, PM's and helpful Suggestions! I will try to go through what happened thus far as to de-bugging, and just getting ME up to speed on these cars! Turns out there is some of both!
1) The car WAS way too rich, as I suspected. Thanks to the help of Jim Inglese, the car is nearly perfect, and a lot closer to correct than when we started. I cannot emphasize how helpful Jim was in the process, and I whole heartedly endorse him, his parts, and his counsel. I paid him for some over the phone help, and it was money well spent. No longer excess fuel washing the cylinders, soot out of the pipes almost non-existent, and other bothersome issues. I am no longer afraid of Webers!
2) the popping was almost completely eliminated as a result of more proper jetting, and advancing the ignition timing......there remains just a hint of popping on decelleration, and I may leave it alone, or try to correct it as a part of the last bit of fine tuning.
3) Car just needed a bulb or two, and I discovered through a previous owner of the car (via Clubcobra!) that he had modified it to be more like the 427 cars of the 1960's....(MK III's?) by removing the lower part of the dash, and the heater, and replacing the shifter with a 1960's reversed Mustang shifter, and the associated Parking Brake.....that combined with the sidepipes gave the previous owner the touches he desired.
4) Found me a mechanic in Dallas to help me with said matters.
The car runs VERY strong, and I can see why the rubber has been increased in size.....A small block Ford or modular Ford will be my choice of engines going forward in this or any future Cobras.
Many Thanks!
Bradford aka Griffbl