Originally Posted by mattpatt
I, like everyone else, went through all the same questions at first (and you'll have lots more from my experience). To try to answer some of your questions:
1) You're 6-2, I'm 5-6. I have the seat, still on it's track, all the way back (had to add pedal extenders to get the seat back and steering wheel a confortable distance away for how I like it). I'm not so tall that my head has too much wind over the windshield (good for keeping hats on). Given my issue with needing pedal extenders I suspect you'd be just fine in that arena. That said, I understand the taller folks do just fine also. Maybe bolting the seat to the floor is a good trick - others can answer this.
2) Regarding ordering a new roller. Mine (SP3033 - delivered about a year ago) took 5 months to get here (ship needed repairs, etc.). Most options are listed - you can get them from your dealer. There were other options I learned about while ordering (and one AFTER I got the car!). You can get upgraded brakes (necessary if you're gonna track your car - want more resale value/pride of ownership, etc.), can get headrests, etc.. You can get an extra coat of clear-coat on the paint (saw one recently - looked very good, wish I'd known).
One option is for an additional roll-bar or a full-width roll bar. When I went for my first drive as a passenger I found it a bit "wierd" not to have something behind me: I ordered mine with the additional passenger roll-bar just so my wife would feel more comfortable in it (hope to take some ~longish drives with her).
I also got the upgraded fire extinguisher (includes better "chemistry" - not just looks).
I did not opt for the passenger sliding seat option. If the passenger seat doesn't slide you can't add spacers to tilt the seat back a bit like you can on the driver's side (something I did - but then, my wife doesn't like it tilted back like I do).
I went for the quicklifts. They are the most popular and, from a protection standpoint, aren't much worse than the other (less appealing, IMO) options. A minor bump from another car will break fiberglass no matter what you have.
An option is to go with no rivets. I chose this for cleaning ease - but I regret it now. The lines of the scoop require the rivets IMO. I'm going to add them myself to get the right look.
Wheel size options. If you want the original (lots of rubber0 look go with the 15s. I went witht eh 18s for the wider choice of high perf tires available. I suspect handling is better, too. One thing I don't like, though, is the lower profile tires are a bit shorter (~26.5" diameter rather than ~28"). This means overall effective gearing is a bit lower - I'd rather have it abit higher (60 mph in 1st vs 55).
I went with the larger brakes - looik good, needed if I ever track the car, maybe better resale.
3) Motors: you'll get lots of opinions here to be sure. Since the SPF is not "authentic" I decided I had some lattitude to do some "upgrades" (I can hear the groans now) while keeping the basic package very similar in looks and performance to the original. I went with a small block (351 based) 427 - made to my "mild" suggestions by Keith Craft. Has the magic 427 ci number and has performance essentially as good as any other 427 (big block or not) - ci is ci. With this choice I also went with an aluminum block. In the end, I have 554 hp (flywheel) and >580 lb-ft torque), an engine that is lighter than the original 289s that won all the races (the BB 427s were too nose heavy). The engine is reasonably smooth for street driving and I get ~15 mph on the highway (~9 around town). The performance is downrighti fantastic! As near as I could tell getting a BB (esp FE) doesn't buy anything in resale (this is not a concourse car) and it has downside like cost, weight, etc.. High performance (handling/corners) for street use and technical "restrmod" pride of ownership were my aims.
4) 427 vs FIA - your choice, buddy. Whatever turns you on the most. Both are fantastic machines.
5) Trannys. Most typical is the TKO. I got the TKO600 5-speed to add strength margin for the engine I choose (wanted max reliability). This tranny has either a .65 or .83 overdrive. Folks doing lots of long highway trips like the .65. The .83 is better for track use. I chose the .83 because I didn't want a noticeably large RPM drop between 4th and 5th vs. the other gears, and I drive mostly on city streets anyway so I can use 5th at 40 mph (nice and smooth with my engine choice). Finally - if I ever sell it I'm guessing the .83 (and big brakes, and aluminum SB will fetch a higher price) - but who knows? A final word - I very seriously planned on putting the Tremec 6 speed in (to get both the .83 and .65 advantage). In the end why do it when, with the 5 speed, you really don't even need 1st gear. Also, besides major headaches with frame mods, etc. it turns out you may void any warrantee if the frame is cut (necessary to put the 6-speed in). The 5-speed is plenty for this car. FYI - I also went with a Mcleod street twin that should last a really long time, has light pedal pressure and can handle 800 hp (?). Replacing a clutch is a pain. Went with a steel flywheel since I wouldn't be racing and less revs on pull-out are better for clutch life. Works just great for my application.
Hope some of this helps - but you'll get a lot of great info from the folks on this site - they REALLY helped me make the right choices for me. Just keep asking the questions.
Good luck - and have fun!!
Sorry this took so long!!
Matt
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