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Old 07-30-2012, 10:06 AM
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YerDugliness YerDugliness is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: No city...only 118 residents in Manter, KS
Cobra Make, Engine: Cobra Auto Works body, Ron Godell Racecars chassis, 1989 Mustang GT 5.0 HO (converted to carb), W/C T-5, 3.73's in a Ford 9" Traction-Loc.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhv48 View Post
If you converted a FI engine to a carbed engine, did you also change the thermostat? FI engines usually run a 190 degree thermostat. Carbed engines normally run 180 degree thermostats. Set the fan to come on at 200 degrees. That could account for some of the higher temps. Verify your timing is spot on while you're at it also.

Install a 180 degree thermostat and fully shroud the radiator and check the timing That engine should run 180 degrees at freeway speeds in 100 degree weather all day long. Forget the water wetter for now. There is something else going on here. Something is definitely not performing up to par.
Thank you for the info...here is what little I can tell you, as the car came with a verbal history and little in the way of written build/repair/upgrade documentation.

I bought the car as-is and have no idea if the party who did the EFI/carb conversion changed out the thermostat, so I really have no idea about the thermostat rating. I have spent almost all of my worktime rebushing the parallel 4-bar rear suspension and the two front suspension bars. Likewise, I have not checked the timing, although I do have a good timing light and will do that this week. I did wonder if my timing might be too far advanced when I had a battery suddenly quit spinning the engine, but after posting a thread here on CC the vast majority of responders felt it was just a 4 year old battery that had run out of lifespan. I do have a very small battery in the car now (375CCA) and it starts better than it ever has.

The fan is operated manually by a toggle switch on the dash, not automatically switched by a temperature sensor. I do keep a keen eye on the temperature gauge and when the needle hits 200* I switch it on. I can start the car cold on a warm day and it will be up to 180* within 8-10 minutes. If I continue to let it idle the coolant temperature will continue to increase until I turn the fan on manually, then it cools down to around 185* and stays there until I get it out of the driveway. After that the temperature rise depends on how and where I drive it. The biggest problem is when I get into the center part of Houston where there are long periods of stop and go driving on the freeways...even with the fan on it gets close to 230* during those 45 minute stretches of stop and go traffic on a hot day.

I will do as you suggest, make sure I put a new 180* thermostat in and check the timing. Unless I can figure out how to do it easily right now, though, the shrouding will need to wait until I put in into the garage for winter storage.

I have reason to believe this vehicle started its life as a drag racing car and was converted to street trim in order to sell it...just too much in the way of race stuff on it...a welded thick-gauge aluminum fuel cell with foam blocks in it, Mallory fuel management (fuel pump/fuel filter) as well as Mallory Hy-Fire ignition components, the way the bumper hoops mount look like they were originally for push bars, that sort of thing. I was told that the huge Griffin radiator was installed while it was in its current "street trim" condition to address an overheating issue. The car is very minimalistic in orientation, no convenience items like power brakes/steering, heater, just a drivetrain and an alternator. Perhaps temperature management was not an issue if it was originally purpose built for only driving 1/4 mile at a time.

Thank you for the advice...as I said, I shall change out the thermostat and check the timing and see if the that makes a noticable difference (will check the opening temperature on the thermostat before I install it, too).

Cheers!!

Dugly
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