Quote:
Originally Posted by CHANMADD
The clutch plate/disc does not get balanced with the assembly. If I was you, I would get the short block, take the crank out , at least ,( you should do the pistons too), and find a balance shop. There has to be one somewhere. Broken cranks, cracked bell housings, are all a result of out of balance. Do it right once or continue paying...............its an easy choice really!!
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If the engine builder delivers an internal balanced rotating assembly, it is by itself absolutely neutral or zero balance. Anything you add front or back like harmonic damper at one end and pressure plate and flywheel can be balanced individually to give neutralor zero balance. If all these parts are 0 balance, 0+0+0+0 makes 0, right?
You may want to fit a lighter flywheel or a different clutch without having to take the crankshaft out every time. Cliutches are wear items and get replaced often, and the flywheel may have to be resurfaced same as the pressure plate. It is basically a swap job, and the only thing you want to do is to make sure those parts are checked for proper neutral balance.
Be it a static balance, like I propose, where you first balance the flywheel (in my case it was resurfaced) and it is also an aluminum flywheel, very light allready. I needed 5 grams on one end to keep it from stopping always in the same position.
Then I added the pressure plate with all the bolts fitted and balanced it again, having to add another 17 gramm in order to get it to be neutral. I will have to weld a small steel plate on the outside of the PP since drilling it will probably affect the mechanical integrity.
So there will be a small weight on the FW, a small screw in one of the empty holes and a plate on the outside of the PP.
I will anyway take it to a tire shop and see if they can fit it to their balancing machines they use and double check. Unfortunately there are no shops who do dynamic balancing here, so I have to make do with what is available.