Quote:
Originally Posted by SF_SN888KE
"............... As I am writing this, maybe there is a way to flip the adjustment screw (carb 4 adjustment) with the spring stop (I think this is connected to carb 3? need to take another look)
As you mentioned, that is my concern - sync'd only at idle but what happens when you accelerate? Will carb 3 always lag behind? I guess I can try to raise the main idle screw to 1500 rpm, 2000 rpm and then check the sync?
Anyone else have this problem of sync'ing a high or low carb? How did they do it in the old days without the fancy linkage?
Will check the sync with higher rpm, and then with new plugs ... when I have more time.
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if you cannot balance a pair of carbs with the coupler screw (which is the ONLY connection between them) then there might be something bent in the mount for the coupler screw or the tab on the other carb where the coupler screw makes contact. All the coupler screw does is raise or lower the throttle plate for the #4 carb. It does not move in any way the throttle plate for #3. (You might have some other problem that is causing #4 not to close completely ?)
I would not for one minute consider a work-a-round for this issue. It needs to be solved. Also, if you did end up with one carb considerably more open than it's linked carb, then they would out of sync all the way up to wide open throttle. Not what you are wanting.
Sonds like you have the 3 / 4 carb pair with a too high of a pull from the rod connecting them to the 1 / 2 pair. If you back off that rod until the 3 / 4 carbs are completely closed, then open it just enough so 3 & 4 will barely run, then you should be able to sync 3 & 4 with each other first, then match that pair with the 1 /2 pair.
As pointed out, a photo of your linkage might help with the advice, but if you got your system from Jim Inglese I ave a pretty good idea what you have. It'd be nice to have the photo to confirm.
Z.