[lippy]

Originally Posted by blykins

Well, a couple of reasons...

1. Hood clearance. The dry sump pans are generally around 3-4" tall, compared to 7-9" for a wet pan. This allows you to sit the engine down in the car further and allows for more intake manifold.

2. Performance. This engine will probably get beat on pretty hard, and with the cornering capabilities of Gary's new car, it is an insurance point.

3. Horsepower. With a dry sump pump, the scavenging part of the pump will pull a little vacuum on the crankcase. This allows me to use a piston ring pack geared more towards making power. There is also less windage because the oil is not stored in the pan.

4. Cookie-cutter-ness. This engine is very close to a race engine. Solid roller, belt drive, stud girdle, fully ported heads/intake (the heads flow over 350 cfm at max valve lift), etc. The dry sump adds to the overall "theme" of the engine.

Thanks Brent. Ballpark, what are the HP/torque gains and cost associated with an upgrade to dry sump?