I just completed this job using 1817s with an Aviaid pan (with windage tray). Brent gave me some good tips.
Here's what I did:
- Remove and clean pan and windage tray. Clean carefully and make sure bolt holes aren't distorted. If they are, either straighten the flanges with a body hammer or replace the pan
- Brent installed 4 studs in my block, which made the job much easier
- Use Permatex red gasket glue per instructions to glue the lower gasket to the bottom of the windage tray, and also to glue the top gasket to the block.
- Apply a very thin layer of sealant to the bottom of each gasket. You can use The Right Stuff, which apparently seals well but is a b*tch to get off if you ever need to, Black RTV, or Motorsport TA-31 (gray) as many people prefer. I didn't want to use The Right Stuff and had heard that the TA-31 is the same material, so I tested them side-by-side with some spare gasket material on my metal workbench. As far as I could tell, they are not the same, and the TA-31 comes off much easier, so that is what I used
- Make sure you cut around the bolt holes and main seal
oil return passage on the top gasket, at the rear of the pan. If you don't, you will get a main seal leak.
- Assemble all layers finger tight. The studs really help get everything together quickly, and you will need the time as the sealer skins fairly quickly. Then tighten gradually in a side-to-side pattern. Aviaid recommends a torque of 60-80 in-lbs, but you can't get a torque wrench on the bolts anyway. I just tightened each bolt about a quarter of a turn, let them settle/compress, and then snugged them again an hour or two later. It is very important not to over torque the pan as too much torque will distort the flange and cause leaks. You don't need much torque. Brent also used serrated nuts on the studs and lock washers on the bolts, which help keep everything tight.
- Wait a day or two to add
oil to be safe so the sealer can set up.
I only have about a hundred miles on it but so far so good - not a single drip.