Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobcat
Maybe Brent/Barry etc will chime in .
Techs don`t build engines , you guys do .
|
I appreciate that. A lot of people don't understand that the people they talk to over the phone have more than likely never turned a bolt on the engine you're working on, and maybe haven't ever turned a bolt, period. That goes for carb and cam tech lines as well.
I have made requests to Felpro for gasket changes, particularly on their MLS SVO SBF head gaskets. They don't reach all the way up to the china wall and so you get a gap between the block and the head. If the sealant doesn't happen to get down into the little crevice, it will leak. So far, I haven't seen them change it, probably because they're not the ones who have to warranty the engines. Punks.
For FE stuff, I glue the gasket to the block first and use the Permatex Gasket sealant. It goes on like contact cement....put it on both pieces, let it tack up, then stick them together. If the engine is in the car, put a stud in each corner to help line things up for you.
I use an X-acto knife and cut around the bolts/studs and cut around the rear main seal drain. If the drain is blocked, it could back up
oil into the rear main seal. If the bolts/stud nuts hold the gasket up, there's not much that will help you there. The Pond block is really good about sinking the rear cap stud nuts down far, but I still cut around them just in case.
After the gasket is stuck to the block, I use a very light layer of sealant, and maybe add an extra bit on the seal between the rear cap and the block, and where the timing cover meets the block. I just spread it on with my finger. Check your timing cover install to see if it's flush with the block or if it hangs down. I use a tool to center the timing cover onto the block by the seal counterbore in the front, and you'd be surprised at where the cover sits when it's perfectly in line with everything.
If you won't have the pan off for awhile (or never), I'll use the Right Stuff. It will come off, but you have to be very ginger with the pan as you remove it. It will not ever leak if you use it though.
If you're racing and pull the pan on/off frequently, you can glue the gasket to the block then use a layer of lithium grease between the gasket and pan so that it won't stick.
Lock washers also help keep things where they're supposed to go.
As for torque values, they're pretty much useless with this fastener type and since
oil pans are hardly ever perfectly flat, you don't know if you're done pulling or if the pan is just bent. I just tighten by hand with a 1/4" drive ratchet and watch things closely.