Kevin2 Kevin I am late to work, heres's the easy way to setup car
1 15" and 17" wheel are different settings. You didn't say which ones you have.
2 Setup car with your weight in drivers seat.
3 Adjust spring height. I have 2" between tires and body at top. This will give to safe wheel travel on street roads,WITHOUT tank trap potholes.
4 adjust rearend trailing bars to center tires in openings of body.
5 this will get you safe for road testing.
Was a corner weight setup done on the car with your weight in the drivers seat and 1/2-3/4 tank of gas? Other note is to have battery in trunk over r/r tire if possible. this will help balance car too.
Find a dirt tracker and have the weight plates to balance car. Trying to get around 52/48 with iron BB. I have aluminum and run 47/53 with 1/2 tank of fuel.
MY alignment is setup is for racing and not street. Follow the ERA manual for the camber, caster, and toe setup. Also the rear camber, toe and IMO thrust angle to have the car drive straight. Camber is a B*T*H to get setup on a jag rearend as well as toe. The rear cradle bottom mount holes may need to be Oblonged for adjustments of rear toe. This is not in the manual for repairs or setup. My manual is from 97.
A good alignment makes a safe and stable driving car. The down side is the cost and finding someone with 1/2 a day to get the right setup done.
Good luck. Ps with my fat butt in the drivers seat on 17" wheels I am at ride height of 4 3/4" all the way around. I don't have my bellhousing trimed either. Again it's a track car. The lowest part of the car is the bellhousing if it's a lakewood. Quicktime has a better height and less weight. There is some questions about this and weather you are running an aluminum flywheel or 40# iron one.
Good luck. Rick L.