crenbbf I have a roller and run 8.55" in a shebly block and heads,(aluminium). My motor also expands more that iron. If you have the checker kit with the lite springs and torqued the head to the block, with a 1020 felpro head gasket, this is the correct way. The only issue I have run into is the lifter with or without
oil. I soaked mine over night and did the check. The closer to center the better of the valve. This reduces wear on the valve guides. I run high
oil pressure in my motor and my lifters pump up at higher rpms. The normal adjustment is from 1/4 to 1 turn of the adjuster after contact with the valve close. I setup my valve train with .010"- .015" valve lash with hydro rollers. When hot there is no noise. They are Crane from 98 and still running fine. My motor doesn't have the large fall off of power in the 5,600 rpm to 6,200 rpms like other motors do. You can also cheap the hydros with adding shims inside the bodys to limit how much travel you want of the plunger in the housing. You are making a hydro lifter act like a solid one. This works great if you keep the travel to .050" to .060" total travel. You will still have a power drop but no as bad. The other note is to install C clips in the lifter to keep all the parts in the lifter housing. Those wire clips will come apart some times when running hard. Bottom line is if you are going to turn more than 6,500 rpms than go solids and get pressure oiling to the rollers and don't idle the motor if possible. Good luck Rick Ps don't worry about where the pushrod sits in the hole of the manifold. You will need to check each hole and maybe grind away a little material to have a good clearance from being of the cycle to the end of the valve lift cycle. There are 2 FE motor books out. Jay brown wrote one and the other has slipped my mind. Both give good info and setup of FE motors. I think it's Barry R. EMC master. Later.