[mnm99]

Thanks. I charged the battery over night. I understand what eschaider is saying though. I did have it tested at 3 different places and all came out good. What's weird is the CCA on the battery says 580 and all 3 test came out around 650CCA. More than the battery is rated for. Changing the Solenoid is easy enough. When I get home I wasn't to hook it up and check if there's any draw on it with everything off first. maybe there's a small draw somewhere that keeps killing the battery over time. The charging is at around 13.85. I was told it has to be over 14 to charge a battery. true? Battery is around 4 years old.

Thanks Marc #467

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

mnm99 This will cost you a first name here.
My first thought is a bad cell in the battery. You are showing 110CCA off during one test. Divide that by 6 cells and you have 1 dead cell. The Alt will over charge the battery to max. You don't need a battery for running the car as long as the amp output is higher that the drains of what is on. I would go with the guys on battery first.
I would also have the starter tested for ampage load if it's easy to remove. You didn't say how old the battery and starter soleniod are? IF you are running a mini starter, they draw about 70-100 amps to turn over a motor. Stock oem starter draw about 125 - 175 amps depending on motor compression and timing at cranking. This leaves 300 on the table. I am thinking the starter soleniod could also have burnt contacts inside the housing. It wouldn't hurt to replace this. We don't have an age or amount of starts done to it. With a weak battery you put a harder load on the contacts.
Make sure your ground wires and + wires are clean to the contact points.
Do the 2 parts and you should be OK. Rick Ps is there a sperate relay to the starter relay in the curcuit? I don't have a wiring picture of SP cars. They could also run a wire direct fron starter switch to starter and have a problem. Start with battery and soleniod.