stidigs Going to need a first name here.
If you are running the big track, you are going to run out of motor or gearing. Thing about a cobra is once you hit the 110- 120 mph it becomes front end light. Mine at 125 wants to lift off. Have to remember that a cobra is a barn door cutting though the air. If you want a track car, build one and drive it on the street. IMO don't try the other way around with street suspension. With a 4 spd you have a limit problem for gearing. Either hit the rev limiter on the front straights or not get up to max rpms. 3.20-3.40 gears will get you around the track. You didn't say what the trans ratios are. If a wide box 3.20's. I run 3.31's but have around 600+ torque in my motor and limit to 6,200 rpms with many
oil modes. HVHP
oil pump, 3 quart accusump, system holds 13 quarts of
oil. Always have min of 35 psi on high "g" turns. If nothing else, get a 3 quart accusump and add to oiling system. On the track you need to change the coil springs and add about 150-200 high spring strength. Drop the car down to about 3.5" at the lowest frame or point. Mine is the bellhousing. It's lakewood and I didn't modify it on the bottom. Nose down about 1/2" front to back. Have the car's corner weights done with your weight in the drivers seat. This will get you started. Alignment will be adjusted from the tire heat readings over time. Big brakes, need big air to cool them. I started with 15" wheels and 12.2 rotors and pads. Hard track driving causes Major heat build up and boiling of the fluid. Need blower fans and ducting to help control. I went to 17" wheels. 15" are great for drifting the car and give a better feel for when the car is coming loose. 17" better handling, but no warning of coming loose. Yes 3 spinout and change of underwear
. Need more air to rear brakes if they are inboard. Still need air to outboards. Look up the original cobra ducts for racing. They will give you ideas about a setup for your car. Good luck Rick L.