Well, I'll tell you what I have, and you can decide. One of the main points when building a stroker motor is not to skimp on the bottom end. There is so much stress on the rods and main caps. I would suggest using a main girdle. It makes the blocks stronger than blocks with 4-bolt mains.
I'm going with a 427ci motor. Actually it's only 425ci, but I'm not telling anyone.
I'm using an Eagle ESP 4340 crankshaft. Fully nitrided, crossdrilled, and knife-edged. It's got a 4.100" stroke.
I'm also using Eagle H-beam 6.200" rods. They have been shotpeened and heat treated. Should be stout.
Unfortunately for big cube strokers, the compression height on the pistons is so small...and this makes the piston VERY expensive. A set of pistons for my engine is $800 with rings.
I plan on using Trickflow heads (2.02, 1.60). They won the flow-rate shoot-out in the Muscle Mustang and Fast Fords magazine. You can check Andy's website (
www.cobralads.com) for an overrun on them. You might wanna watch some of Brodix's heads...the header mounting flange might be out of whack a little bit...in that case you would have to have custom header flanges made. The Trickflow heads have 61cc combustion chambers...which is kinda bad. Those pistons need big dishes to keep the CR down to 10:1.
I've went with the Victor Jr. intake too. It's setup for the RPM range that my engine operates in. I think mine makes the max hp at 6100, so the overlap is still good.
Hydraulic roller setups are always good. Less friction and less maintenance. Since I won't need to rev the piss out of my engine, I'm going with the hydraulic roller myself. My cam is a Crane cam.... 232,244, .563, .595 with a 112 lobe separation. My advice here is to buy all of your valvetrain stuff from the same manufacturer. Chances are everything will work together more smoothly.
Be sure and use a high volume
oil pump, and a big honkin
oil pan. I'm using a Melling HV pump, and a Canton 7qt road race pan. You need at least a 6qt pan, or that pump will suck it dry in a heartbeat.
I'm not sure with a 392, but you will probably need to machine the block so the rod bolts won't hit the cylinder skirts. This isn't a big deal....you just take a die grinder and cut them. I needed to cut 3/4x3/8 slots in my skirts for good clearances. The general rule of thumb is that you want .060" clearances between them. If you use a main girdle (which I do highly recommend), you'll probably need to grind on the
oil pump fillet a little too....and maybe bang on the oil pan a little to get it to fit. One thing you'll learn when building a stroker is that nothing ever really fits like it is supposed to. All part of the fun though.
I think I spent $599 on my crank, $455 on my rods, and $760 on the pistons and rings.
So that's basically what I can share with you. I'd use good bottom-end stuff....a forged crank is always better for high revving, high hp motors...H-beam rods are stronger. (I actually did a finite element analysis on H-beam rods vs. I-beam rods in one of my graduate level engineering courses.) Go with the girdle...definitely.
You know you get most of your power from the compression ratio and the heads...so get some good heads...with close to 300cfm on the intake side. That should get you going.
I'm gonna have about $7500 in mine...but it's gonna be very stout.
If I can help you in any other way, please let me know. I've blueprinted all my journals and bearings with a bore micrometer (accurate to .0001")....and I can send you my spreadsheet with those figures on it if you wish.
Take care and good luck.
Brent