[RICK LAKE]

car4jim JIm What happened to the lifters you are replacing?? Is there and Damage to the camshaft lobes? Do you have a couple of pictures with the damage? How big is the lift on the camshaft?
To the best of my knowledge Johnson and Morel at the ONLY ones making good lifters. They also make them for alot of other companies, Like Crane.
I have been running hydro lifters for 12 years from crane. Here's what I have learned,
Max safe rpm is 5,800 rpms. The lifter don't bleed down and you get valve float unless you are running high pressure valve springs. At 6,500 these lifters hydro lock and are done period. These lifters are heavy. I have cheated the problem with having a valve lash of .015" compression of the plunger in the lifter. This is with the correct geometery and keeping the roller tip in the center of the valve. I forget the pushrod length. It's 8 something. Valve springs, I have been running a set of beehives for 15 years of the 26120's. My hydro camshaft is the small roller at .587"-.607" No sure if they even have the camshaft any more. Great torquye and midrange power. [i] have a setup of erson rockers on the heads. IMO I am at the limit of these valve springs and valve train in safety. My lifters hydro lock at 57-5800 rpm but because of the valve lash I can push to 6,200rpm without a major loss of power. The valve train is still floating but has held so far. Alot of guys don't like the single spring on their heads because of breaking springs. Some times the dampener spring will hold up the retainer and not let the valve kiss Mr. piston and major damage. I take my chances. There are new beehives out with higher spring rates. You are saving 20-60 grams per valve with this setup alone. The motor is also a little quicker to accell. I know of a couple of guys who broke beehives from too tight a spring bind and broke off the bottom spring coil. The say clearance is .080" Some guys are running .060" I had work done to have .100" clearance. The spring are banging on each other with this tight of coil clearance. The valve train is also very heavy in this motor too. I good reason for solid rollers also if you are going to beat on the car. If you are really serious, pull the motor and goto .904 lifters and forgetaboutit. This is my tests and what I have done. Question time.
A couple of pictures would be nice to see the damage.
You said 2 pairs of lifters need to be replaced, what broke??
Camshaft, either pull it or check it very carefully for grooves or damage to the lobes. This will destory a new lifter quick. This doen't include the metal damage going through your motor.
What is the camshaft specs?
Get rid of the steel flywheel, that's a spinning grenade even if SFI tested and approved. 18-22 pound is all you need. Aluminum flywheel with a steel insert.
Info on your driving and abuse. If you are breaking dampeners there is something wrong with the valve train geometery.
If you are going to drive hard, change camshaft and lifters. Will need new pushrods also. A little more maintainance for valve lash will be needed. I would still limit this motor to no more than 6,500 rpms. Put a 6,200 rpm chip in the ignition module or distributor module.
Last thing, oiling of the rockers and heads, What limiters are in them if any? Are any of the adjuster on the rockers blue in color or the tips of the pushrods? How many valve springs have been broken on this motor??
You may have a double problem here.
Not trying to bust balls but giving correct info will help get you back running and prevent more damage to this motor. Balls in your court. Rick L. if you want to talk more, sent a pm with info on contact. You also have a great FE builder in Fresno. Joe B. NObody knows more than him about building FE motors. Rick L. 7322543536 call if you want in the evening.