Quote:
Originally Posted by davids2toys
Just a thought... if you used just an inline fuse instead of the fusible link wire, it would be a lot easier to change out instead of being stuck on the side of the road.
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Yes, it would be easier to change. But the whole idea behind a fusible link is that it will only blow if there is something
big time wrong and, most likely, it will require a tow back home and some time on the lift to find out why it blew. It is not designed, nor is it intended, to be a "quickie fixable" item. As I said in a previous post, I have never, ever, ever had to actually replace a fusible link in any of my cars... including the super-charged GTP that blew its
oil all over the engine bay while I was driving, caught on fire, had flames coming out from under the hood, and every damn dashboard light there was started blinking and dying. Even with the car being a total loss from the fire,
the fusible link still worked.
Quote:
Originally Posted by davids2toys
Also, your CB is the auto resetting type so if the scenario happen where the wire shorted out on the firewall, would it not keep on smoking and shorting due to the CB resetting itself?
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50 amps probably wouldn't even make the wire itself smoke, but there would likely be some smoke coming from around the fault location itself (because of the higher resistance on the fault). If I was really lucky, it might even "burn itself free" of the fault, like power lines will sometimes do with tree limbs, but probably not. The circuit breaker would be clicking on and off and I would be standing there with my thumb up my... thinking
"hmmmm, I wonder what's wrong and what the hell is that clicking sound?" Then I would put my finger on the circuit breaker and feel it clicking on and off. At that point I would disconnect the battery via the quick disconnect gizmo on the negative battery terminal and the clicking would stop. I would then wiggle some wires, reconnect the battery, the circuit breaker would start clicking again, and I would call for a tow.