[DanEC]

I used Rivnuts in a number of areas - probably should have used them in some more areas as Lippy makes a good point about sharp points exposed underneath. If we are covering misc materials useful for the build, a few I found:

- some industrial type, adhesive backed Velcro. Most of my carpet is secured with Velcro. I also used strips of it to fashion wire harness ties for underdash to keep things neat.

- If you use the rectangular taillights, I would purchase the aluminum shields/reflectors to fit behind them in the trunk. They do brighten the lights up and help shield them.

- I have Mcmaster Carr bookmarked on my computer and purchased all sorts of stuff from them from rivets, to weatherstrips of various dimension self-adhesive weatherstriping used to cushion and rattle proof various areas.

- A box of 3M Strip Caulk is always in my tool box to use to seal various areas such as around the heater hose nipples in the firewall, under the windshield and around the windshield posts and under the vent valves on top of the foot boxes.

- I coated all areas of the interior fiberglass body exposed underneath with truck bed liner to seal the fiberglass. I sprayed the wheel side of aluminum panels with Eastwood undercoating to black them out and protect them. It's not really necessary - more a personal preference.

- It's easy to overlook ordering battery cables as part of your order. They don't include them as standard since there are a couple of options on battery mounting locations.

- Highly recommend replacing the brake caliper bleeders with speed bleeder units. Makes brake bleeding a one-person, fool proof process.

- Although your car should arrive with all the brake lines in place, don't automatically assume all the connections are tight and leak free. You will need to go through all of them and tighten them up.

- If you are not paying ERA to rivet in all aluminum panels, use care when drilling the holes in the trunk floor panel. The top of the fuel tank is only about 1/8 inch below the floor. Consider investing in a pneumatic riveter from Harbor Freight or be prepared to suffer carpel tunnel syndrome from a manual riveter. A right angle drill (cheap at Harbor Freight) is handy for a few tight drilling areas.

- Invest in some various size serrated washers (McMaster Carr) for grounds as there are quite a few of them and good ground connections are important on a Fiberglass car.

- I think ERA recommends insulation on the underside of the transmission tunnel but I also applied it on the top side to 1) add a bit additional cushion and 2) to soften and round the sharply square edges on the tunnel top a bit more which makes for a nicer look.

- Lots of options available but you will need a tube (or several tubes if doing your own panel riveting) of adhesive/sealant to seal under the panels and joints at panels. I used a black marine RTV adhesive/sealant from West Marine but there are products being used just as successfully.

- If you don't have it already, get a tube of Dielectric Grease to apply over all spade type and bolted electrical connections. These aren't the expensive, weather proof type electrical connectors you find in modern cars.

Probably more I can come up with later but these are a start.