Quote:
Originally Posted by rbgray1
Redhawk,
I still have my factory Arms in boxes in my garage, just getting some welding done and then repainting the frame before installing new Front A-Arms, rear QA1 upper and lower Links, coil overs on all 4 corners and Wilwood 4 piston 12.19 brakes.
Let me know if you need me to measure any of the OEM factory items for length from bushings to ball joint.
Also IMPORTANT...you mentioned that the only the driver side tie rod was maxed out. How is the pass side? If the shop disconnected both of your tie rod ends at the same time and the steering column or the wheels were turned prior to reinstalling the tie rod ends into the steering knuckles, your steering rack may be way out of index. The best way to set this is to disconnect both Tie-Rod ends from the steering knuckles, loosen the dust boots from the rack and pinion unit and then turn the steering wheel until the inner rods of the rack protrude about evenly from the rack and pinion body. This should also be fairly close to where your steering wheel centers if it was aligned properly before. You should now be able to reinstall the Tie Rod ends into the steering knuckle with both Tie Rod Ends being adjusted close to same amount with the tires pointing straight forward. If ball joint geometry was changed due to the new A-Arms, I don't know how it would effect one side and not the other.
Note..A good way to rough in the toe in on the front end is to use about a 12 foot length of masonry string, make a hook out of a piece of wire and attach to one end of the string. Hook the string on your rear end housing and then route the string around the back side of the rear tire, centered on the axle. Now pull the string to the front of the car, centered on the front spindle and pull tight while slowly moving toward the front tire. When the string touches both the front and rear edge of the front tire at the same time, that's close to perfectly straight. I usually rough in about 1/16" toe in on each side after suspension work just to get the car close so I can run to my local shop for an alignment without completely destroying a set of tires. Keep in mind, adjusting the upper A-Arm will effect Camber and Caster, so I try to get those fairly close by eye before doing ANY toe in adjustment with the string as adjusting the upper A-Arm will have an impact on rough settings of toe in.
I don't know if I'm stating the obvious, just trying to help.
Please let me know if you need any OEM Measurements, either of factory parts, or my ball joint width side to side, this is a critical measurement and one that we focused heavily on during my days as a Bodyman in a Ford dealership while straighteing frame damage and any suspension part replacements. If your ball joint width is correct, you shouldn't have an issue with tie rod ends. Also, I WOULD NOT go to a longer tie rod end, it would tell me geometry has changed and would create a whole litany of other problems including bumpsteer, anti dive angles, etc.
Hope I can help with your problem.
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Redhawk,
One quick addendum to my comment on String Toe-In setup I forgot to mention. With all wheels pointing straight, measure the overall track width from outermost tire sidewall for the front and rear ends respectively. If your rear track is wider (say 2" just for argument) then divide by two (2" divide by two=1"). Then when using the string pulled very tight to remove any droop in the string, use a tape measure on both the front of the front tire and rear of the front tire and adjust the tie rods until you have 1" reading on the tape measure at both the front and rear of the front tires. This takes into account any track width difference between the front and rear ends. Due to tire sizes, rim backspacing, rear end widths....each one of these will have an impact on overall track widths front to rear differentials. When alignments are done, measurements are to the outer bead of the rim. Without alignment equipment, it's very difficult to measure to this point accurately on the front and rear at the same time. If you take your time, the string method works pretty well for
ROUGH Toe-In alignment at home in our garages just using the outermost bulge in the tires and the string. Also, keep in mind this process requires the front suspension to be "loaded" with most of the normal weight it will be carrying. When making tie rod adjustments, you may need to bounce the front end of the car to relieve any tire resistance from the ground. Another trick I use since I don't have tire plates at home is I raid my wife's supply of wax paper in the kitchen, tear about 4-6 18" long pieces of wax paper and place them on the garage floor under the front tires, placing 2-3 pieces of wax paper under each front tire. If your garage floor is fairly smooth, the wax paper will allow enough 'slip" of the front tire while adjusting the tie rod ends. A little bounce of the front suspension will also help. Remember, make adjustment slowly, bounce the front end and remeasure, it's very easy to over adjust if you make big adjustments to the front Tie-Rod toe in adjustments without releasing the tire contact tension with the floor.
Hope this helps.