Thread: Radiator cap
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Old 02-16-2017, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Bolick View Post
1. Ford caps (see amkproducts.com) during the early 60's were 13 or 14 lb caps. The pretty expansion tank will "bulge" at higher pressures...

2. Roughly 3 degrees raise in boiling temperature for each PSI.

3. AT SEA LEVEL (roughly) water boils at 212 F, 50/50 antifreeze/distilled water at 233 F.

Using advanced math, a 13 lb cap with near 50/50 mixture boils at ~270 F.

(ignored is the 5,000 ft elevation boiling temperature of water ~203 F)
(ignored is the 29,000 ft elevation boiling temperature of water ~162)(Mount Everest!!)
(totally ignored is the actual relationship to barometric pressure not altitude)

PRACTICAL EXPERIENCE:
A completely stock, all original foreign car was spec'ed as a 7 lb cap through 1972.
Factory changed little else, but switched to a 13 lb cap 1973+.
I managed to obtain an ORIGINAL 7 lb cap... for an event in the Southwest US, i.e. 95+ F outside.
Car ran great, no heating issues, TILL stopped quickly after a long interstate drive...
Sitting nearby about 15-20 minutes later, the car started having "gas"... and I don't mean the liquid kind!
It was obvious, burping, belching, shooting water/steam out the overflow pipe.
The performance lasted ~10 minutes.
Consistent performance on hot days until I changed to a 13 lb cap.

HEAT SOAK is real and will cause hard starting (mixture) and slow turning (starter), AND "gas", 5-30 minutes after a hot run.


NOTE: ideally ~40% antifreeze to optimize the cooling process, lower freeze temperature, and higher boiling temperature.
Great info Roger. Thanks.
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