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Old 08-03-2017, 04:22 AM
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Location: Canandaigua, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GT350Mike View Post
You might want to ask your builder if you should replace your oil cooler. Even though I didn't have chunks of hard metal in the oil, I went ahead and replaced mine. Let me know if you decide to replace yours and I'll dig up the part number. Also, if you don't want to spend almost three hours installing the cooler like I did, let me know and I'll walk you through that because there is a sequence to removing/installing the oil cooler.
If you do not decide to replace your oil cooler, then minimally you need to flush the oil cooler and lines with some solvent and then run some fresh oil through them to make sure that there are no metal particles still in the system. Flush until you see very little oil in the solvent and then with fresh oil and run that through until it is as clear as it was going in.

I have a question regarding compression ratio and iron heads. A couple of people have said that they would cap CR with iron heads at around 10:1 and that you can go higher with aluminum heads. I recognize that for the most part modern aluminum heads flow better than standard iron heads. However, there are iron heads that flow better than standard iron heads. Is it the potential flow or the material that contributes to this thought?

My first car was a 1974 Buick with a 340 in it that had 11.25:1 compression with iron heads. My 289 race engine has 12.7:1 compression with iron heads, in fact unless aluminum heads were used on a race car when it was raced originally, all vintage race cars must run iron heads. There are people in vintage racing running up to 14:1 CR with iron heads. Of course, we are running on higher octane gas (110-112), but fuel does not seem to be the issue.

Looking forward to some education here. Thanks.

Jim
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