[PoppyMod]

[quote=

Hi, all -

My ERA slabside is moving along in New Britain, so it's time to get serious about a powerplant.

The goal is a moderate street build (probably 331cid, compression to suit 91 octane California gas, hydraulic roller, modern Al heads and intake). No ambitions for track or strip; and the car will be traction-limited by the narrow rubber (215mm) that the slabside car can accommodate.

I'd like to have a significant hand in the engine build, but I'm also very aware of the value offered by our Friendly Forum Engine Builders (FFEBs).

The usual advice for mild SBF builds is "these engines are everywhere, just go find a good local guy," but I don't feel plugged-in enough to the community to feel comfortable with that. I don't want to get bounced around between random bits of conflicting local feedback like "Joe Smith is awesome, he'll take care of you" and "Joe Smith forgot to torque the main caps on my motor." By contrast, the reputations of the FFEBs are well established across a large data set on the forum.

So if I were looking for a crate motor I'd simply call an FFEB and be done.

However I'd like to build the motor at least from the shortblock stage. It'd be even cooler to start with a machined block and balanced rotating assembly and take it from there. I realize that this is likely not to save much dough - that's not the goal, it's more about the experience. I also realize that passing up an FFEB's assembly expertise, run-in/dyno test, and warranty could end up costing me dearly if things go south. I'd be totally open to working with one of them to source the components mentioned above; but I also recognize that it might not be cool to ask a builder to sign on for a block finder/part vendor/machine shop role.

So, any recommendations/experiences to share? Based on my research to date, assembling a mild SBF is doable if the machine shop work is good, you've read up or consulted on the right way to do everything, and you're disciplined about triple-checking dimensions, clearances, and steps taken.

My background:
- lots of mechanical experience, but have never assembled a shortblock before.
- lots of machine shop experience, but none of it automotive. Very familiar with precision measurement tools and their use.

Bill[/QUOTE]

Hi Bill,
With the help of my cam grinder, I built (assembled) my own SBF. It started life as a 289, went through the 302 iteration and is now a 331. Being a street warrior, I wanted a reliable big torque street performer. This meant not too large heads and chose TFS 170 Twisted wedge heads. These are a few of build facts:
Rotating Assembly:
Bored and stroked to 333 cu.in. consisting of a 3.25” crank, 5.400” rods and .040 bore. Pistons are “Probe” flat tops (CH 1.175, before milling) with valve reliefs CC’d at 3.606 with 1.162” (after milling .013”) compression height. This places the piston above deck .005”. A new balanced flex-plate and Professional Products harmonic balancer is added.

Heads:
TFS Twisted Wedge heads with 170 runners, blended bowls, and 2.020 Int. and 1.60 Exh. Heads have been shaved to create a chamber size of 56 CCs. Compression ratio is 10.6 CR, using a .039 gasket. FelPro #1011-2

Cam and Valve train:
Custom (CI) designed, specifically, to maximize the use of these TW heads equipped with CompCam’s link-bar roller lifters. Maximum RPM is set at 7000 RPMs. The roller rockers are CompUltra Gold roller rockers with 1.6 ratio. Trick Flow® Chromemoly Pushrods; Heat-Treated, 5/ 16 in. Diameter, and 6.750 in. length, are premium hardened units.
I'm currently running a Performer RPM intake with Dual 40mm WEBER carbs. It's been a reliable strong running engine that dynoed at 375+ RWHP with 400 RWTQ.
In any build, it's the attention to detail that makes a difference. One of the most important aspects is a quality valvetrain. After all, the VT transfers the cam events to the valves. If they deflect or not set correctly, you don't get all of the benefit of the cams events.
If you PM, I'll supply the cam specs.