To the best of my knowledge
oil FLOW is more important than pressure.
There is an interesting series of articles by "BOB the
OIL Guy". Basically he is a proponent of using synthetics at low viscosities to increase flow at lower than optimum temps for the type of
oil.
You can have extremely high pressure but if it doesn't FLOW it can't transfer much heat, or maintain a hydraulic wedge in a rotating assembly. Another thought, is it actually making it to the end of the oil galleries? .
When I installed my mechanical gauges I first put the temp sensor bulbs into boiling water to see if it was near 212...the oil gauge was dead on, the water temp gauge read 10 degrees low.
When I rebuilt my engine at 17000 miles I added a bung on the oil pan to install an oil pan heater. Takes an hour at least to bring the oil temp up to 150, but at least I can drive the car when it is overall "cold" and not see a oil pressure spike off the gauge.
Where I live I could drive for 20+ minutes and not have enough oil temp to safely wind out the engine getting on the freeway.
Maybe one of the engine builders will weigh in here...help!
Anyway, I DO NOT rev the engine up over ~3000 os so when the oil is below 170/180.
My engine is 289/347. Apparently the guys with big block FE's have different issues.
Pete