Quote:
Originally Posted by strictlypersonl
I suspect that the holes in the plate are there to define where the brackets go (laterally). Use shims between the brackets and the differential to fill any gaps (as the original Jag configuration did).
* That means that the holes in the plate must be located perfectly. No sloppiness allowed.
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So the factory alignment is set and maintained by the bottom plate with no provision for adjustability short of relocating the holes? I suppose the lateral (right-left) alignment could still be changed by rotating the entire cage, but toe in/out would have to remain fixed?
All very interesting - I'm learning a lot about the Jaguar rear suspension. When I disassembled mine, 3 of the 4 fulcrum bracket mounting bolts were alarmingly loose and they were not safety wired. The same bolts on the newer differential case were wired and all were tight. I suppose if nothing else, the plate (with a tiny bit of room in the holes for adjusting toe) may be added insurance agaist slacked off or broken bolts. Or, as suggested, I could drill the holes after everything is set up and then receive full benefit.
Thanks legenmetals - a rough calculation shows that a plate made of 1/4" stainless would weigh almost 9 lbs. Happy to cut that in half using 1/8". I also want to add a mounting tab on the plate for the remote bleeder screws.